The following is confirmed pricing as of January 2023. This does not include any advertised special pricing.
It is our goal to make our pricing as simple and clear as possible and make sure not only do we give our basic pricing but explanation of why things are priced as they are and what may increase costs. It is important to note that we do not ask for any deposits or money upfront which is why customers purchase all paints directly. Over the years two things I have warned customers about are contractors that demand money up front as it’s a very easy way for an unreputable contractor to take the money and run. Instead, you will only pay for work as it is completed which is commonly known as ‘pay-as-you-go’. The other thing is how many contractors get the paint at a big discount then charge you extra money on top of the retail cost for more profits. Our way is different – you go to the store and purchase the paints directly and get our entire discount applied at the time of purchase. This means you are paying one of the lowest prices going out there and that allows the use of premium paint products at prices that rival and in many cases BEAT what you can get from Home Depot, Lowes and even Menards in quality and price.
You will see us refer to a ‘standard area’ many times. A ‘standard area’ is defined as a room or area up to 12′ x 12′ with 8′ ceilings and having one entry door, one closet door and one window with standard baseboard and door frame/trim which is void of all furniture. An empty area is critical to the low price as any items left in an area can complicate and lengthen the time it takes to paint an area therefore will increase costs. Please note that closets are counted separately from a room/area!
You can verify current pricing here: https://www.homewyse.com/services/cost_to_paint_wall.html
Surface and Area Preparation
One of our goals is to keep your prices reasonable and one way we do that is by only doing what you specifically need instead of charging extra for things you don’t. For the vast majority of our customers their rooms are ‘paint ready’ and the customer only wants small nail holes patched and the room painted. This is covered under the basic paint labor pricing so if there is additional repairs needed please let us know during the bid process so we can discuss the various options available. ‘Repairs’ may include but not limited to repairs from curtain and blind hangings, window ornaments, nail and screw pops, tape cracks, gouges, cracks and other drywall damage. It is also the time to deal with any caulking issues along baseboards and other woodwork.
Two other options some customers have opted for include a full surface prime before painting and a full light sanding for cases where the wall has small particles in the prior paint job which helps smooth things before the finish layers are applied.
Any work of the ‘repair’ nature can vary in price depending on what has to be done. Since repairs that require drywall mud take time to dry before they can be sanded and in many cases need more than one coat the length of time to complete repairs can vary. If there is only one room to paint there would be nothing else that can be completed until the repairs are done which means multiple trips as opposed to a multi-room project where you can work on one area while another dries.
So you can go standard paint job or go all in – just let us know.
All rooms start at the base rate – $200 a room based on any space up to a standard 12 x 12 x 8 area using a two cut, two roll process and using a single color of flat, matte or velvet (lo-sheen eggshell) paint. Smaller areas are still priced at this minimum. The average room can be fully completed in a day and returned to use the same evening. See the special notes below about kitchens, bathrooms, two story rooms and stairwells. To guarantee this price the room must be completely empty! Since most work is flat rate based on a set process when things interfere with that process prices can increase. Furniture poses several issues – as we paint with poles and buckets the pole itself (shortest) is about 4 ft so realistically you want at least 5′ from the wall clearance to maneuver the pole and keep a ceiling to floor roll going. If you do not have proper clearance you improperly stop in the middle of a wall which can cause ugly stop/start marks. It’s even worse trying to paint a ceiling in a room with items. Quite a bit of safety risk squeezing around things too. It’s very important to discuss with us any items you do not think can be cleared from an area to determine if they will be an issue.
Other than extra room size beyond the ‘standard area’ there are things that can increase that price…
There are two rooms which do not follow these guidelines – bathrooms and kitchens. Kitchens involve a considerable amount of hand cutting which is one of the most time consuming parts of painting and because of the nature of kitchens most are about 50% cut work. Smaller bathrooms are also complicated because of the confined area of work (much longer dry time between coats) as well as quite a bit of brush work around sinks, vanities, medicine cabinets, wall lighting, toilet and sink plumbing and around tubs and showers. Kitchens will generally run an extra $25-50 while bathrooms tend may run an extra $25. There are exceptions to this rule which we will discuss during the bid.
Two story rooms/Stairwells/Hallways
In general, most two-story rooms start at a base price of $1200 and go up from there. These are also expensive areas because it includes the labor of painting the area as well as supplied scaffolding and a second worker (required per insurance). When painting stairwells, the price is mostly based on whether or not there is carpeting that meets drywall as that generally requires the most prep work and takes the longest. Hallways are unique as some are very easy and may be included in the price of the attached room and others will cost at least the same as a standard room because of the amount of doors and small areas that must be completed by brush. The more brush work involved and items that have to be masked and painted around the higher the price may go.
Single Coats/Primer Coats
A single coat of primer/paint in a standard area room will run $150 for walls and $85 for ceilings. WE DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING SINGLE COAT WALL PAINTS EXCEPT WITH THE SAME COLOR/SHEEN – what is commonly known as a repaint.
A single coat of white or ceiling white paint applied to the ceilings of a standard area room will run $90. It is important to note that in most cases a single coat is all that you need to refresh a room however if the surface has not been painted in many years and become discolored or has been painted an off white color more than one coat may be needed. When extra coats are needed the price generally begins at 45 per additional coat (basically half the price of the first coat). Price assumes walls are also being painted – prices vary for ceiling only paints – for a normal room the price starts at $125 for a ceiling only – no walls paint. This works perfect for already white ceilings – any other color may require two coats or more to return to a normal white).
Things that can increase the price:
Closets start at a base price of $35 but can vary depending on type of shelving and size. The common low end wire shelving costs a bit more because of the high chance of the mounting clips and brackets pulling from the wall during the removal of the shelf and the additional hand painting around all the brackets and clips in these style closets. Walk in and pantry style closets
Doors And Door Frames
Doors are priced per coat and based on design and depending on the door several different options can be chosen by customers. For the example prices here we are assuming a normal 6 panel door with a height of 7 ft (standard). Per coat prices begin at $45 for the facing of the door (front, back and striker side but not hinge side). Flat doors begin at $25. Per coat prices that involve the hinge area of the frame run $60 and flat doors $35 and covers removal of the hinges, knob and striker plate and remounting however many customers opt to save and remove the doors and hardware themselves in which case the price would be $45 and flat doors $25. Price assumes walls are being painted – prices may be higher if door trim is painted without wall painting. Prices would also be different if the door but not the frame are painted.
Base, Chair Rails and Crown Molding
Using the same standard room area we have in other examples per coat pricing on crown molding would run $60, chair rail would cost $50 and baseboard $50. As in other examples we are dealing with standard woodwork, already painted white and of a normal design. Just like doors there are a ton of different designs and sizes with all three types of woodwork prices can increase however about 70% of what we run across fits within the standard price range – the more expensive ones are highly ornamental. These prices are also per coat white on white and assume walls are being painted. Prices will be higher for trim only packages because even on a single coat of white painting woodwork without the walls is a very time-consuming process and therefore more expensive.
Since we get numerous calls where customers want stained/varnished wood painted white or other colors we offer a full de gloss, prime and paint. It is important to note that these type jobs vary but for optimum look and durability one coat of primer and up to four coats of paint is required. For the same reasons of cost when doing a single coat of white on woodwork without a wall paint taking trim from stained wood to paint is that many times harder. While we can do these jobs pricing is very unique because it’s one of the smallest area jobs we do and one of the most expensive. Simply put it is impossible to guarantee quality when work is done in this matter even with best effort without being expensive.
Wainscot trim/panels are a very nice added feature to many rooms however the mere presence of it in a room will begin to add some minor additional cost to a room and then go up from there depending on how it is handled. The cheapest way is to paint everything the wall color and do not treat the wainscot trim as an accent. In many cases it is painted white using the same paint as the baseboards and chair rail – done this way to mimic woodwork even when it’s drywall. Many customers we have do choose to use this feature as a minor to major accent to their home. You can do wall color and white trim, and some have chosen to do a three tone – outer wainscot one color, trim one color and inner wainscot one color – very dramatic but also quite a bit of time and labor to make it look top notch! Because of the variances, please let us know if this trim is in any rooms/areas you need bid so we can discuss the options with you.
Wallpaper removal is a difficult area to estimate properly because so many factors that influence the successful completion of the job are unseen and can’t be observed until work is begun. For this reason, when we quote a price for wallpaper removal, the following factors are used to establish the estimated cost.
If we get into the project and find additional layers of paper, extremely durable glues, sloppy surface preparation (like wallpaper glued onto bare drywall or plaster) or a deteriorated wall surface, additional charges may apply. The charges will only increase if it makes the job more difficult. (For example, if there are two layers of paper, but they are bonded tightly together and come off easily, you would likely see no increase in cost.)
If the wallpaper removal portion of a project is much more difficult than anticipated, your estimator will let you know and try to give you an estimate on any change in cost. We are not drywall contractors so while we will repair small areas of damage in some cases it may be necessary to have the surface of the drywall repaired and/or floated by a professional drywall contractor to achieve a perfectly smooth surface prior to painting. If this occurs, we will let the customer know before we begin further work beyond the initial paper removal. We do have a drywall guy who we generally refer people to in these situations who is reasonably priced and highly qualified who can return your walls to a perfect condition.
Cabinets hold the same warnings that stained/varnished wood painting projects have – this is a multi-step process that involves a deglossing, priming and then multiple coats of paint applied over several days. Costs can increase if the painter has to remove all doors and hardware and label each so many customers opt to do this themselves. We also need a fairly large area to lay the doors out for painting like a basement or garage that will be used for several days. Once the final coat is applied the doors should be left to dry for at least 48 hours then remounted. Once this is done, we schedule a follow up visit for touch ups since there is almost always some damage from remounting and small areas which are best cleaned up once everything is in place. In most applications we will be using either a latex enamel or a latex-based paint/urethane product which is one of the hardest finished we’ve found outside of baked on enamel.
To ensure the highest quality work across all projects we complete we only use Sherwin-Williams products. With the enormous discounts we get (close to 50%) we can get a top-of-the-line paint for LESS than what you can get standard quality hardware store paints. This allows us to use a paint we are very familiar with and have rollers and brushes specifically recommended for application. When other paints are used the job becomes more complicated because different paints have different dry times, recommended applicators and coverage abilities very unexpected results can happen
As mentioned in the pricing we will supply a standard number of materials to complete the painting job. This includes brushes, rollers, buckets, screens, spackling, cloth tarps, roller frames, poles, 6, 8, 10 and 12′ ladders, one roll of masking tape, one roll of masking paper, painters’ plastic and all necessary hand tools and maskers.
Last but not least..As mentioned the customer bears all responsibility in moving furniture, belongings and wall hangings from the work area prior to starting work that day.
The reason for this is simple… we are insured as interior painters. When you also become furniture movers your insurance rates go through the roof. It’s also the reason why pricing is based on an empty room – it is the safest way possible to paint. When you start adding random obstacles to jobs your risk goes up and so does your insurance cost. When you have workers lifting furniture of random types and size that risk goes even higher because of possible damage to the item as well as worker injury. By opting out of those two coverages we were able to get a much better rate which helps us keep prices as reasonable as possible.